How to design your system
System design is really very easy. First, assess your property for areas that mosquitoes are most likely to breed (typically cool, shady, moist and wind free environments) as well as high use areas you want to be pest free (backyards, pool or patio for example) Make a sketch of the areas, measure the overall perimeter as well as other structures you plan to attach nozzles to then add the dimensions to your sketch.
Now, add nozzles along the perimeter of the protected area maintaining 8′ to 10′ spacing between them. Add additional nozzles where you would like a higher protection level (example: around your house, the patio, playground or swimming pool.) as well as shaded, damp or dense foliage areas where mosquitoes breed. In the example below, a branch run is made into the yellow flower bed where the nozzles are attached to risers. Risers are used in areas when it isn’t possible to mount to an existing structure. The riser includes a fitting to attach the nozzle (“T” fittings, angled adapters and nozzles for risers are sold separately.) Try to minimize the amount of trenching under walkways and driveways. When running tubing underground 1/2″ PVC tubing is recommended to protect it from being cut (PVC may be purchased from your local hardware store) Avoid underground connections (such as “T” unions) as these are possible points of failure and need to be accessible for troubleshooting purposes.
The final step is Reservoir Placement: If possible, choose a covered area such as garage or equipment shed. For outdoor placement, consider a clean, level, semi-covered area, free from flooding and runoff (Covers are available and recommended for reservoirs located outside) Close access to a water source and a 120 Volt GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupt) protected outlet rated for 15 Amps minimum is also important as the system shall not be powered by an extension cord or power strip.
Nozzles and Fittings
Nozzle assemblies are made up of nozzle tips and adapters; they come in two sizes: Mini and Full Sized. Adapters are available in two styles, straight and angled. The Angled style is used when mounting under an eve so the nozzle tip is pointed away from the house; They are also used in Risers. The Straight style is multipurpose and is used everywhere else. Nozzles may be attached to fencing, trees, eves, gutters or to risers. See the accessory section for mounting clamps and cable ties.
Click Lock “T” Fittings are used to connect tubing to nozzle adapters. L (elbow) fittings are used at the end of a run and at sharp corners. Straight fittings are used to splice tubing together.
Determine the fittings needed to connect the nozzles and complete the nozzle circuit. Estimate the amount of tubing needed to connect the fittings with allowances for runs up and /or down the side of the house, trees or fence.
Here’s a list of components in our example
Nozzle Tips: 58
Straight Adapters: 36 (on the perimeter of the yard )
Angled Adapters: 26, (22 on house eves, 4 on risers)
Risers: 4 ( in yellow flower bed)
“T” fittings: 67 ( one for each nozzle except the ends, 4 for risers plus 4 branch)
“L” fittings: 3 (optional, 5 more for the corners of the house)
“I” fittings: 0 ( optional, 2 for future line repairs)
Tubing: 700′ (400′ for the yard perimeter, 200′ for the house perimeter, 50′ for the reservoir to the yard perimeter, 15′ for the reservoir to the house eve, and 35′ to the risers.) You may choose white, brown, grey or tan tubing for the house perimeter and black tubing for the rest.
Now you have a list of main components you’ll need to complete your project. Click here to learn more about your choice of controllers.